New Construction Home Inspection Checklist: 7 Punchlist Items

Your builder just told you the house is ready. Everything looks clean, the paint smells fresh, and the countertops gleam under new light fixtures. But behind that polished finish, there could be missing flashing, improperly wired outlets, or HVAC systems that weren't commissioned correctly. A new construction home inspection checklist is what stands between you and closing on a house with problems that won't surface until the builder's warranty clock has already started ticking.

New doesn't mean flawless. At Trinity Home Inspections, we inspect new builds across the Alabama Gulf Coast, from Orange Beach subdivisions to new developments in Daphne and Spanish Fort, and we routinely find defects that passed municipal code inspections. Code is a minimum standard, not a quality standard. That's an important distinction most buyers don't realize until it's too late.

This article breaks down 7 critical punchlist items you or your inspector should verify before you sign closing documents on a new construction home. Each one comes from real issues we see in the field, not generic advice pulled from a textbook. Whether you call it a new home inspection checklist, a new build inspection checklist, or a final walkthrough list, the goal is the same: find the problems while the builder still has to fix them. If you're buying new, this is where you start.

1. Book an independent phase inspection

Your builder's schedule and your interests don't always align. Booking an independent inspector at the right stage of construction is the most effective step you can take to protect your investment before the walls literally close in and hide what's behind them. Most buyers skip this step because the home looks finished. That's exactly when it matters most.

Why new builds still miss important details

Municipal code inspectors typically spend 15 to 30 minutes on a home that took months to build. They check for minimum legal compliance, not quality or craftsmanship. That means missed nailing patterns, improperly installed windows, and skipped sealant can all sail through a code inspection without a second look. Your new construction home inspection checklist needs to go further than what the city inspector reviewed.

A passed city inspection also doesn't mean every trade finished its work. Inspectors visit at set milestones. Plumbers, electricians, and HVAC crews often come back after those visits, and nobody re-checks what they changed.

The best times to inspect during construction

Three phases give you the most leverage. The pre-drywall stage is the most critical window because it's the last time anyone can see framing, insulation, plumbing runs, and electrical wiring before they're buried permanently. A pre-closing inspection catches finish-work defects and systems that weren't properly commissioned. If your builder offers an 11-month warranty, scheduling a warranty inspection before that window closes gives you a final, documented opportunity to hold them accountable.

If you can only afford one inspection, make it the pre-closing inspection, and ask for it a few days before your final walkthrough. That gives the builder time to fix items instead of promising to fix them later.

What a professional inspection covers that you can't see

A trained inspector brings thermal imaging cameras, moisture meters, and combustible gas detectors to find problems that aren't visible during a standard walkthrough. These tools reveal heat loss, hidden moisture behind walls, and gas irregularities before you move in. Testing every accessible outlet rather than a random sample is another step that catches wiring errors a code inspector routinely misses.

An independent inspector works for you, not the builder, and that difference in loyalty changes everything about what gets documented.

What to bring to the builder and how to follow up

After the inspection, request a written deficiency report with photos and video and deliver it to your builder formally. Ask for a response that includes a specific correction deadline for each item, and keep a complete paper trail in case disputes arise before or after closing.

For your own walkthrough with the builder's rep, bring a printed copy of this list, blue painter's tape to mark defects, a flashlight, a phone charger or outlet tester, and a tennis ball or marble to spot sloping floors. Tag each problem with tape and photograph it before the rep walks away. Anything that isn't written down tends to be forgotten.

2. Verify grading, drainage, and the lot

The lot around your new home should slope away from the foundation on all sides. Poor grading is one of the most common defects on new builds, and it's far cheaper to fix before you close than after water has worked its way into your crawl space or slab.

On the Gulf Coast, this matters even more. Flat lots, heavy summer storms, and high water tables mean water has few places to go. Many new lots are built on fill dirt that keeps settling for the first year or two, so a grade that looks right at closing can change quickly.

What to check around the foundation before closing

Walk the full perimeter and confirm the ground slopes at least 6 inches over the first 10 feet away from the house. Check that window wells and door thresholds sit above the surrounding grade, not flush with or below it.

Also confirm that sod, sprinklers, and any retaining walls are finished, and that no construction debris is buried or piled near the slab. Buried scrap lumber attracts termites, so ask the builder about the termite treatment and get the paperwork for it.

Quick drainage tests you can do on-site

After a rain, look for standing water pooling near the foundation or along the side yards. Even on a dry day, you can check swales and low points to see whether water has a clear path to the street or a drainage outlet.

If water has nowhere to go, it will find its own path, and that path often leads under your home.

Common grading mistakes that cause water problems

Builders frequently create grading problems that look harmless at first. The two issues that show up most often on a new construction home inspection checklist are:

• Backfill soil that settles inward toward the foundation over time after compaction

• Mulch beds piled against the siding that trap moisture against the wall

When to flag it as urgent for the builder

Flag grading immediately if standing water sits within 3 feet of the foundation after any rainfall. Document every problem with photos and request a written correction deadline from your builder before closing.

3. Check the foundation, slab, and structure

The foundation is your home's most critical system, and new construction doesn't guarantee it was poured or framed correctly. Adding foundation and structural checks to your new construction home inspection checklist can catch problems that cost tens of thousands to fix after closing.

What to look for on slabs, piers, and crawl spaces

Walk the perimeter of the slab and check for uneven surfaces, exposed rebar, or areas where concrete wasn't finished properly. In crawl spaces, look for standing moisture, missing vapor barriers, and proper pier spacing before anyone covers the area.

On raised homes, also check that anchor bolts, straps, and connectors are present and tight. In hurricane country, these connectors tie the house to its foundation, and a missing one is not a cosmetic issue.

Cracks and movement that matter vs normal curing

Hairline cracks in concrete are common during the curing process and usually aren't a concern on their own. Cracks wider than 1/4 inch, horizontal cracks, or stepped cracking along block foundations signal movement that needs professional evaluation before you sign anything.

A crack you can fit a quarter into is not a settling crack; it's a red flag that needs documentation.

Framing checks that prevent future drywall issues

Your inspector should verify that load-bearing walls and headers are properly installed and that framing is plumb and square. Out-of-plumb framing leads to cracked drywall, sticking doors, and window gaps that show up within the first year of ownership.

Inside the finished home, you can spot framing problems yourself. Look for doors that swing open or shut on their own, gaps wider than 1/8 inch at trim and baseboards, and floors that feel bouncy or slope when you roll a ball across them.

Signs you should call in a structural specialist

If your inspector flags significant foundation movement or compromised framing, bring in a licensed structural engineer before closing. A professional opinion gives you documented leverage to request builder repairs or negotiate price concessions.

4. Inspect the roof, gutters, and exterior flashing

The roof on a new build looks clean from the driveway, but that view hides improper installation, missing underlayment, and flashing gaps that invite water intrusion from day one. Adding a thorough exterior review to your new construction home inspection checklist is the only way to catch these problems before they become your responsibility.

Roof items that fail on brand-new homes

Your inspector should verify shingle sealing, ridge cap installation, and proper nail depth across the entire roof surface. Overdriven nails break the shingle's integrity, and under-driven nails lift in wind. Both defects are common on new builds and easy to miss without getting on the roof.

On the coast, nail count and placement matter even more because wind loads are higher. Our FAA-licensed drone lets us see steep or unsafe roofs up close without walking them, so we can check for lifted tabs, exposed fasteners, and damaged shingles from every angle.

A roof that looks intact from the ground can have dozens of fastener and sealing failures that only show up after the first hard rain.

Gutters and downspouts that dump water at the house

Check that gutters pitch correctly toward each downspout and that every downspout extension deposits water at least 4 feet away from the foundation. Gutters installed level or sloped the wrong direction pool standing water and eventually pull away from the fascia.

Window, door, and penetration flashing to verify

Every window frame, door frame, pipe penetration, and vent needs properly layered flashing underneath the exterior finish. Builders frequently skip or reverse the lapping order, which lets water travel directly into the wall cavity.

From the inside, open and close every window and exterior door. Each one should latch, lock, and seal without force. Look for caulk gaps, cracked glass, torn screens, and daylight around door frames.

Exterior finish issues that turn into leaks

Check siding clearances at the roofline and grade level to confirm the material isn't in direct contact with shingles or soil. Either condition accelerates rot and creates a path for both moisture and pests.

Also look at the garage door, driveway, and walkways. The garage door should reverse when it meets an obstruction, and concrete flatwork should drain away from the house without major cracks or low spots.

5. Test electrical safety and basic functionality

Electrical defects are among the most commonly documented items on a new construction home inspection checklist, and they're also among the most dangerous to overlook. Builders work under tight schedules, and wiring errors, unlabeled panels, and missing GFCI protection show up routinely even in homes that passed a final electrical code inspection.

Panel labeling, breakers, and visible wiring checks

Your inspector should open the main electrical panel and verify that every breaker is clearly labeled and matches the circuit it controls. Look for double-tapped breakers, missing knockouts, or exposed wiring at the panel. These are defects that builders leave behind more often than you'd expect.

Also confirm the panel cover is secure, the main disconnect is easy to reach, and arc-fault protection is present where current code requires it. Test the GFCI and AFCI buttons to make sure they trip and reset.

Outlet, switch, and GFCI checks room by room

Testing every accessible outlet with a circuit tester catches reversed polarity and open grounds that a code inspector typically misses by sampling only a few. Pay close attention to GFCI protection in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, and exterior locations, which are required by code but frequently skipped or wired incorrectly.

Walk the house room by room and flip every switch. Confirm each light fixture, ceiling fan, and bath fan works and that no fixture wobbles. Check that the doorbell, garage door opener, and any exterior lights work too.

An outlet that looks normal can have reversed wiring behind it, and that error won't announce itself until it damages an appliance or causes a shock.

Smoke and carbon monoxide alarm placement

Verify that smoke alarms are installed on every level and inside each bedroom. Carbon monoxide detectors must be placed near sleeping areas and should be interconnected so all alarms trigger together when one activates.

Red flags that require a licensed electrician

Flag any scorched wiring, burning smells, or breakers that trip under normal load immediately. These signs point to installation errors that go beyond cosmetic punchlist items and require a licensed electrician to evaluate before you close.

6. Run plumbing fixtures and look for leaks

Plumbing problems in new builds often hide behind finished walls until water damage forces them into view. Running every fixture on your new construction home inspection checklist catches installation errors before you take ownership and before the water bill or a flooded cabinet tells you something is wrong.

If you want a quick plumbing checklist for new construction, it comes down to five checks: pressure, hot water, drains, leaks, and shutoffs. The sections below walk through each one.

Water pressure, hot water, and drain performance checks

Turn on every faucet, shower, and tub in the house simultaneously to stress-test the water pressure under load. Check that hot water arrives within a reasonable time at fixtures farthest from the water heater, and confirm every drain clears without gurgling or backing up.

Flush every toilet at least twice. Each should fill quietly, stop running, and sit solid on the floor with no rocking. Also check that hot is on the left and cold is on the right at every fixture, because reversed supply lines happen more than you'd think. Outdoor hose bibs should run freely with no leaking at the handle or wall.

Slow drains in a brand-new home usually point to improper slope in the drain lines, not a clog.

Under-sink, tub, and shower leak points to inspect

Run each fixture for two to three minutes and then open cabinet doors to inspect supply line connections, drain collars, and the P-trap for any moisture. Check tub and shower surrounds for gaps in caulking and grout, which allow water to migrate behind tile and into the framing.

Fill each tub and sink, then drain it fast. The sudden flow tests overflow drains and slip joints that a slow trickle won't. Keep a dry paper towel under every connection and look for damp spots afterward.

Water heater and shutoff valve items to verify

Confirm the water heater temperature sits at 120 degrees Fahrenheit to balance safety with efficiency, and verify the pressure relief valve has a proper discharge pipe. Test each individual shutoff valve under sinks and behind toilets to confirm they turn fully without sticking.

Also locate the main water shutoff and make sure you can reach it. Look for a drain pan, expansion tank where required, and proper venting on gas units. Ask where the gas shutoff is as well.

Moisture clues that show up before stains appear

Your inspector should run a moisture meter along baseboards, under sinks, and around tub surrounds to detect elevated readings before any visible staining appears. Soft drywall or buckling at floor level near plumbing walls almost always signals a slow leak that started during or just after construction.

For an extra layer of protection, consider a sewer scope. A camera run through the main drain line can find crushed pipe, sags, or construction debris that no fixture test will reveal.

7. Confirm HVAC, insulation, and ventilation

HVAC systems in new builds get installed under deadline pressure, which means commissioning steps get skipped and performance problems don't surface until you're already living in the house. Adding HVAC and ventilation to your new construction home inspection checklist catches these issues while the builder still owns the fix.

Heat and cool performance checks at the registers

Hold your hand over every supply register in the house and confirm you feel airflow and temperature that match the thermostat setting. Check that the system cycles on and off normally without short-cycling, which points to an oversized unit or a refrigerant problem that needs correction before closing.

Run both heating and cooling, even if one is out of season. In our humid climate, check the condensate drain line too. It should carry water outside or to a proper drain, and the secondary drain pan should be dry and clear.

Short-cycling on a brand-new system is not a normal break-in behavior; it's a defect the builder is responsible for fixing.

Ductwork, returns, and filter setup to verify

Confirm that return air vents are properly sized and unobstructed in each zone of the house. Verify the filter slot is accessible and fitted with a filter already installed, since some builders leave this out entirely. Poorly sealed duct connections dump conditioned air into attic spaces and inflate your utility costs from the first month you move in.

In the attic, look for disconnected, crushed, or kinked flex duct and for sweating ducts or dripping insulation. Also check that the dryer vent runs to the outside, is not crushed, and is not terminating in the attic or crawl space.

Bathroom, kitchen, and attic ventilation checks

Verify that bathroom exhaust fans vent directly outside through the roof or soffit, not into the attic space where moisture builds up. Run the kitchen range hood and confirm the damper opens fully and closes again when the fan shuts off.

Insulation gaps that raise bills and cause condensation

Check attic insulation depth and coverage at the perimeter where the roof line meets the exterior wall, a location installers consistently leave thin or completely uncovered. Gaps at these edges create thermal bridging and condensation that damage both the structure and your monthly energy costs long before you notice anything visible.

Thermal imaging helps here. On a hot or cold day, missing insulation, leaky ducts, and air gaps around windows show up as clear temperature differences on the camera, even when the walls look perfect.

Next steps before you close

Working through this new construction home inspection checklist gives you a clear picture of what your builder actually delivered versus what you're buying. Document every deficiency in writing and submit it to your builder before your scheduled closing date. Request specific correction deadlines for each item and confirm all repairs in writing before you sign anything.

Before your final walkthrough, add a pass through the interior finishes. Check these items in every room:

• Walls and ceilings: Look for drywall nail pops, uneven seams, paint drips, and missed spots. Shine a flashlight along the wall at an angle to reveal flaws.

• Floors: Check for scratches, loose tile, hollow-sounding spots, gaps in plank flooring, and carpet seams that are lifting.

• Doors and cabinets: Open and close every one. Doors should latch without rubbing, and cabinet doors and drawers should line up and close softly.

• Countertops and appliances: Look for chips, cracks, and bad caulk. Run every appliance and confirm it matches what your contract promised.

Organize everything into one punch list sorted by room, with a photo and a date for each item. Keep a copy for yourself and send one to the builder in writing. Schedule a re-inspection to confirm the repairs, and don't release your final payment or sign closing documents until the serious items are fixed.

Don't assume a clean final walkthrough means a complete or problem-free house. The defects that cost the most to fix after closing are almost always the ones hidden behind walls, above ceilings, and below grade where no one looks during a casual tour. If your builder's one-year warranty is approaching its end, a professional 11-month warranty inspection gives you one final documented opportunity to hold them accountable before that protection expires.

An 11-month warranty inspection checklist uses the same seven areas above, with extra attention to what time reveals: settled soil, cracking drywall and tile, caulk that has pulled away, roof and plumbing leaks, and HVAC performance through a full set of seasons. Submit your findings in writing well before the warranty ends.

Ready to schedule on the Alabama Gulf Coast? Book a new construction home inspection with Trinity Home Inspections and close knowing exactly what you're getting.